The most significant innovation of the century, however, was the adoption of the
intaglio technique, first in Dublin by Francis Nixon in 1752, then in London [5].
European artists had discovered the possibilities of reproducing pictures from an
engraved metal plate in the 15th century. Copper could be incised by hand with a
sharp steel tool, and was the preferred metal. Application of ink to the plate and
cleaning the unengraved surface with a cloth preceded the careful laying on to the
plate of a sheet of moistened paper which was then passed, on a board, through a press.
This consisted of two rollers, with blankets providing some resilience and ensuring
good contact with the ink. Nixon realised that this technique could be used in
modified form for printing textile fabrics, thus providing a vital step in the movement
towards a machine-based industry.
The Italian word intaglio had been applied to engraving of gemstones and metal.
Wood engravings were obtained by printing from a surface left raised after cutting away negative areas, as for block printing on fabric. Intaglio prints produce much finer line and stipple effects. The effort required for hand engraving was soon reduced by application to the plate of a thin coating of blackened wax, which is easily scratched through to allow a controlled etching of the copper in an acid bath. Tonal effects are obtained by recoating with wax, except for the areas for dark tones, which are then etched to a greater depth. Artists who excelled in the use of this technique included Dürer, early in the 16th century, and later Rembrandt, Turner and Picasso. 01.p65 4 2/12/02, 12:37 pm 5 The ‘obvious’ extension to prints on fabric had only occurred, before Nixon’s time, in the production of maps on silk and similar applications where fast dyes were not required. Nixon took his technique to London in 1755, where there was already an established group of printers using block and wax-resist techniques, and by 1761 ‘an entirely new type of printed fabric decorated with figures, landscapes and architecture’ confirmed the English pre-eminence in the field [5]. It was the delicacy of these prints, together with the boldness of large repeats, that made London the world fashion centre for a while. It was also a recovery of the fine but bold style of the best Indian prints but with a European signature. Schuele took the technique to Augsburg in 1766 and Oberkampf started using it in Jouy in 1770. Copper plate printing did not displace block printing, because the skills required were greater and it was difficult to ensure that the design repeats fitted satisfactorily. The fabric was moved with the plate for each impression and the plate had then to be returned. The fabric tended to move out of line and its position and squareness had to be corrected by hand. The perfect answer to the fitting problem was to turn the copper plate into a cylinder, and this would allow truly continuous production at high speed. Even as early as 1699 it was claimed that an engraved (presumably wooden) cylinder had been used successfully [1], and patents were taken out in England in 1743 and 1764 for cylinder machines. It was 1783, however, before all the requirements for successful engraved copper roller printing were actually worked out and patented by Thomas Bell, a Scotsman. The first machine was in use in 1785 in Lancashire, and by 1840 there were 435 machines in England alone. The vital feature of Bell’s machine was the use of a sharp steel ‘doctor’ blade to remove all the colour paste from the unengraved surface of the roller. The name given to the blade was derived from the word abductor, because it took away the unwanted ink. Although considerable skill was required to engrave and use copper rollers, the increase in productivity resulting from their use was so great that block printing inevitably declined. Turnbull says that ‘where by block it was only possible to print of the simplest pattern about six pieces per day, it was now possible to print by machine up to 500 pieces per day of a similar pattern’ [6]. This was a revolution even more significant than those occurring in the spinning and weaving sectors, and there were inevitable disputes and strikes. But there could be no putting the clock back. Edmund Potter said in a lecture to the Society of Arts in 1852 that the output of printed calico in England increased from 1 million pieces (of 30 yards) in 1796 to 7 million in 1821, and to 20 million in 1851. By 1851 the number of machines had reached 604, while the number of blocking tables declined from 8234 in 1840 to 3939. By 1880 very few tables were still in use, except for the printing of silk and specialist styles. The rise of the roller machine reached a peak in 1911, when production from British printworks amounted to 1400 million yards, of which 90% was exported [7]. Worldwide, roller A HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE 01.p65 5 2/12/02, 12:37 pm 6 TRADITIONAL METHODS machine production accounted for more than half of the total yardage printed until 1976, almost 200 years after Bell’s 1783 patent. While copper roller machines proved ideal for high-volume, low-cost printing of woven cotton fabrics, there was always a market for small-scale production of individual designs, especially on silk, wool and, later, on man-made fabrics. For these, roller printing was not suitable at all. The costs of engraving and setting up the machine for each run were high, and long runs were therefore essential. Block printing satisfied the demand for some time, but an alternative, fundamentally different approach emerged.
Wood engravings were obtained by printing from a surface left raised after cutting away negative areas, as for block printing on fabric. Intaglio prints produce much finer line and stipple effects. The effort required for hand engraving was soon reduced by application to the plate of a thin coating of blackened wax, which is easily scratched through to allow a controlled etching of the copper in an acid bath. Tonal effects are obtained by recoating with wax, except for the areas for dark tones, which are then etched to a greater depth. Artists who excelled in the use of this technique included Dürer, early in the 16th century, and later Rembrandt, Turner and Picasso. 01.p65 4 2/12/02, 12:37 pm 5 The ‘obvious’ extension to prints on fabric had only occurred, before Nixon’s time, in the production of maps on silk and similar applications where fast dyes were not required. Nixon took his technique to London in 1755, where there was already an established group of printers using block and wax-resist techniques, and by 1761 ‘an entirely new type of printed fabric decorated with figures, landscapes and architecture’ confirmed the English pre-eminence in the field [5]. It was the delicacy of these prints, together with the boldness of large repeats, that made London the world fashion centre for a while. It was also a recovery of the fine but bold style of the best Indian prints but with a European signature. Schuele took the technique to Augsburg in 1766 and Oberkampf started using it in Jouy in 1770. Copper plate printing did not displace block printing, because the skills required were greater and it was difficult to ensure that the design repeats fitted satisfactorily. The fabric was moved with the plate for each impression and the plate had then to be returned. The fabric tended to move out of line and its position and squareness had to be corrected by hand. The perfect answer to the fitting problem was to turn the copper plate into a cylinder, and this would allow truly continuous production at high speed. Even as early as 1699 it was claimed that an engraved (presumably wooden) cylinder had been used successfully [1], and patents were taken out in England in 1743 and 1764 for cylinder machines. It was 1783, however, before all the requirements for successful engraved copper roller printing were actually worked out and patented by Thomas Bell, a Scotsman. The first machine was in use in 1785 in Lancashire, and by 1840 there were 435 machines in England alone. The vital feature of Bell’s machine was the use of a sharp steel ‘doctor’ blade to remove all the colour paste from the unengraved surface of the roller. The name given to the blade was derived from the word abductor, because it took away the unwanted ink. Although considerable skill was required to engrave and use copper rollers, the increase in productivity resulting from their use was so great that block printing inevitably declined. Turnbull says that ‘where by block it was only possible to print of the simplest pattern about six pieces per day, it was now possible to print by machine up to 500 pieces per day of a similar pattern’ [6]. This was a revolution even more significant than those occurring in the spinning and weaving sectors, and there were inevitable disputes and strikes. But there could be no putting the clock back. Edmund Potter said in a lecture to the Society of Arts in 1852 that the output of printed calico in England increased from 1 million pieces (of 30 yards) in 1796 to 7 million in 1821, and to 20 million in 1851. By 1851 the number of machines had reached 604, while the number of blocking tables declined from 8234 in 1840 to 3939. By 1880 very few tables were still in use, except for the printing of silk and specialist styles. The rise of the roller machine reached a peak in 1911, when production from British printworks amounted to 1400 million yards, of which 90% was exported [7]. Worldwide, roller A HISTORICAL PERSPECTIVE 01.p65 5 2/12/02, 12:37 pm 6 TRADITIONAL METHODS machine production accounted for more than half of the total yardage printed until 1976, almost 200 years after Bell’s 1783 patent. While copper roller machines proved ideal for high-volume, low-cost printing of woven cotton fabrics, there was always a market for small-scale production of individual designs, especially on silk, wool and, later, on man-made fabrics. For these, roller printing was not suitable at all. The costs of engraving and setting up the machine for each run were high, and long runs were therefore essential. Block printing satisfied the demand for some time, but an alternative, fundamentally different approach emerged.
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