The acute dependence
on the self-centered capitalist western public for apparels markets for the
country’s overall economic development is a major weakness of Bangladesh’s economic
policy. The economically advanced countries of the west are eager to import our
exportable goods produced by cheap labour at the lowest possible prices but
export to us their high cost manufactured goods at increasingly higher prices, including
their brand of political democracy. Their commodities and democracy are
gradually tarnishing the age old rich socio-economic and religious-cultural
values of our own. The west “compels all nations, on pain of extinction, to
adopt the bourgeois mode of production; it compels them to introduce what it calls
civilization into their midst, i.e.,
to become bourgeois themselves; in one word, it creates a world after its own
image” (Marks-Engels, Vol. 1, P. 38). Under this process there will probably
emerge a handful of vertex billionaires in Bangladesh someday but the dignity
and glory of the nation will not remain unimpaired. Let us remember what Al
Qur’ân reveals, “Ye are the best community that hath been raised up for
mankind. Ye enjoin right conduct and forbid indecency; and ye believe in Allāh;
and if the People of the Scripture had believed it had been better for them.
Some of them are believers; but most of them are evil-livers.
From the buyers’
side it is said that if a western retailer paid 2 pence more in UK currency per
piece of apparels, then the wage of the garments workers could be doubled provided
the garments owners paid the workers just wage. The diplomatic missions abroad
may demand that foreign buyers give us reasonable price for our apparels. Of
course it is true that if we ask for better prices for our apparels, the buyers
may not automatically raise it, but if collective efforts by developing
exporting are launched, it may probably help apparels prices to rise by some
percentage points. The increased price may in course of time go to the pockets
of the workers; this is what actually is called “trickle down effect” in
economics literature (Ittefaq, An
analyst, 8 August 2010, P. 23).
The garments
factory owners of Bangladesh and their western imperialist capital owning allies
should remember the age old proverb that “Hungry men are the angry men” and no
law and law enforcing agencies can resist them from bursting out in the long
run. Had it not been so, the European colonies around the world could survive
for eternity, and the garments factories are trifle things.
The garments
owners of Bangladesh should try to search out an alternative market for their
apparels outside the west. According to business leaders there is enough demand
for Bangladeshi apparels in Saudi Arabia. Strong effort will need to be made to
tap this potential, for example, by establishing ‘Bangla Bazar’ or ‘Bangla
Town’ in Saudi Arabia similar to the ‘China Bazar’ or ‘China Town’ around the
world. Saudi Arabia can be a good market for Bangladeshi apparels if the designs
of the apparels are conformable to their demands together with the western
designs which are also demanded there as Arab women and children of different
Middle Eastern countries residing in Saudi Arabia have recently become
accustomed to wearing western types of garments (Sayeed, 22 August 2010, P. 23).
Other Middle Eastern countries can also be prospective markets of Bangladeshi
apparels if efforts are made to expand the apparels markets there. The sole
dependence on the western apparels markets, as it stands presently, could
thereby be reduced. Al Qur’ân reveals that, “He (Allāh) it is Who hath made the
earth useful unto you, so walk in the paths thereof”.67/15 In addition to looking for new markets
Bangladesh will have to export more-value-added apparels instead of increasing
the quantity of exports. To do this, emphasis will have to be given on
high-tech fashion rich production and export of apparels. Bangladesh at present
mainly exports apparels like basic T-shirts, polo-shirts, cotton-shirts and trousers
in which the amount of value-added is very low. This is also one of the reasons
why the garments owners cannot pay sufficient wage to the garments workers
(Karim, 28 August 2010, P. 07). Side by side, efforts should have to be made
for gradual expansion of the domestic market of apparels through improving the
purchasing power of the country’s large population to reduce the huge dependence
of the garments sector on only the traditional foreign markets.
It is not
logical to pay low wage to the workers on the ground that there is abundant
supply of labour in the economy. Likewise, it is not logical to threaten the
worker that the garments owners will shut down the factories if the workers
demand higher wages. “It is coercion on the part of the rich ones to
prevaricate in the case of giving away the wage of the workers and pay off
debts” (Hadith: Bukhari and Muslim), it is farther said that the Prophet (s)
will raise allegations against three kinds of persons in the day of
resurrection, of them one is “The person who makes one work hard and even after
realizing work in full from him, does not pay the worker his due wage (Hadith:
Bukhari).
There may exist
disputes among the owners and the workers centering arrear payments and these
can be solved in a peaceful manner. But no one should be allowed to capitalize
on these disputes and incite workers to create violence as some labour leaders
and NGOs have allegedly been doing every now and then. It is said that these
labour leaders receive tens of millions of Taka as bribe from the said foreign
NGOs; even the garments owners also give these labour leaders fat amount of
money as bribe. “Imprecation of Allāh is on both the givers and receivers of
bribes”(Quoted in Dainandin Zibane Islam, 2000, P.516 from Aan Nihaya Fi Garibil Hadis,
Allama Ibnul Asir (r), Vol. II, P. 226).
Destruction and eventual shutting down of the factories brings
no good to the workers. If labour leaders and NGOs are found responsible for
inciting violence, they should be dealt with iron hands. The resent cancellation
of the registration of an NGO by the government is a good example. In an
environment of intimate relations between the owners and the workers, there
will exist no misunderstandings between them. The workers will remain satisfied
with the wage the owners pay to them and both the owners and their factories
will be safe, there will be need no need for industrial police to wield sticks
over the heads of the workers to keep them calm.
A healthy growth of the garments sector is necessary in the
collective interest of all – entrepreneurs, workers and the economy as a whole.
Yet, it is true that some owners are busy in making their pockets heavy without
giving the workers. There are directives of the finance ministry and the
Bangladesh Bank to provide financial assistance to the losing establishments.
Some tries to take the benefit without being loser. The garments workers should
be paid minimum wage by taking into consideration their overall cost of living,
i.e., the costs of food, clothing, shelter and health care.
Many garments
owners are eager to run the garments factories by paying the workers Taka 5,000
as minimum wage. They maintain that a business in which the workers are paid
their just wages cannot but flourish. But congenial environment will have to be
ensured by preventing any unrest created by political elements and toll raisers
in the ‘Jhut’ business. They claim that
a handful garments owners that do not pay the workers their due are creating problems.
This is one of the reasons put forward for the introduction of industrial
police to prevent anarchy in the ‘Jhut’
sector and to control the defaults in wage payments by certain owners. But the CGWF
leaders argue that the arrest of the defaulting owner will not serve the
purpose of the workers. The right course of action will be to allow trade union
facilities so that the owners and the workers can solve their problems through
discussions (Chaudury, 15 August 2010, P. 13).
BGMEA and BKMEA
leaders welcome industrial police while CGWF leaders want the right for trade union
facilities for fruitfully solving the problems between the garments owners and
the workers through consultations. Even Al Qur’ân reveals that the “affairs are a matter of counsel”42/38 and “who
make amicable settlement, his wage is the affair of Allāh”. 42/40 Prophet (s) has asked not to
buy anything from a helpless person (Hadith: Abu Daud). It means that it is not
permissible to take unlawful advantage of his helpless condition. Shah Oali
Ullah (r) has opined that an approval taken by force is unacceptable in Islam (Hujjatulillahil Baliga, Vol. 2, P.103. Quoted in Dainandin Zibone Islam, 2000,
P.482).
Bangladesh has
made a commendable success in the garments sector. Let this sector not be
ruined like the once prosperous jute sector of Bangladesh because of the rashness either
on the part of the owners or the workers or both or other concerned third parties.
We may at best beg by heart to Allāh the Almighty in the words of Bengali poet
Tagore Ò‡Zvgvi cZvKv hv‡i `vI Zv‡i ewnev‡i `vI kw³Ó (To whom Thou
givest Your flag, give him the strength to bear it). Let us move forward in our
own traditional holy and pious way without paying heed to the westerners who
are entangled in serious socio-economic-cultural and religious crisis which is
the fruit of their own rash materialistic worldly deeds.
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